Room to Grow: Are your plants pruned and ready for spring?
The mild temperatures (interspersed with the snow flakes) have many clamoring to get outside to "work in the yard." This phrase is all-encompassing and can include chores ranging from tilling the garden to mowing the fresh crop of winter weeds.
One important chore that tops the list this time of year is pruning. Whether it is cutting back fruit trees to encourage this year's crop or pruning monstrous shrubs that are growing over the windows, this is an ideal time to get those loppers and pruners out.
Pruning can be done for a number of reasons -- to shape or correct misshapen plants, to get overgrown plants in check, to remove branches that interfere with foot traffic and lawn mowers, and to remove diseased or damaged wood. When done properly, pruning results in attractive, well-formed plants and stimulates new growth by forcing dormant buds to develop. Most of this new growth develops within about 12 inches of the pruning cuts.
Most pruning should occur in February and March. Proper pruning of fruit trees increases fruit set, fruit quality and controls the size of the tree for better access. Pruning also opens up the tree so that inside leaves can receive more light.
Overgrown shrubs that will require "hard," or severe, cuts should be pruned early while they are still dormant. I know for me, it takes a little extra courage to make those rejuvenation cuts!
Evergreen plants and summer-flowering shrubs also can be pruned during February and March. The exceptions to the rule are spring-flowering shrubs, such as azaleas, forsythia, flowering quince and dogwoods. They should be pruned after they have flowered. Pruning these plants now will lead to decreased flowers this spring. As a general rule, if the plant blooms before or at the same time as azaleas, prune it after bloom but before mid-July.
What about those huge overgrown shrubs that block windows and walkways? Drastic or hard pruning is likely the only answer. Rejuvenate overgrown shrubs by pruning them severely to within 2 to 3 feet above ground level. Most broadleaf shrubs, including azaleas, hollies, camellias, gardenias, nandinas, abelias and crape myrtles respond well to heavy pruning if the plants are healthy and well-established.
Boxwoods are an exception to the rule and respond better to light annual pruning. Other plants that do not respond well to severe pruning include needle-type plants such as junipers, cedars, yews and arborvitae.
Although shearing is used to shape some small-leafed shrubs such as holly and boxwood, thinning of individual branches with hand pruners is actually the preferred method. When cutting back large limbs, a pruning saw is the best tool for making clean cuts. However, you can use lopping shears to cut limbs less than 1/2-inch in diameter.
Be sure that your pruning tools are well-sharpened. With a new batch of diseases, including boxwood blight, moving through Middle Georgia, good sanitation practices must be followed. To reduce disease transmission (particularly in fruit trees), dip your pruning shears after each cut in a 10-percent solution of rubbing alcohol or bleach.
Remember that proper pruning technique includes making cuts back to a larger branch. Don't leave "stubs," but do leave the slightly swollen tissue at the base intact. This is the callous tissue that grows over to heal wounds.
UPCOMING EVENTS
Green-up at Middle Georgia State University: While this event is geared toward the green industry and landscapers, all are welcome. Topics covered by University of Georgia specialists will include turf grass, turf disease, weed control, pesticide safety and diseases of ornamentals. The event takes place March 4. Call 478-751-6338 or email karolk@uga.edu for more information.
This story was originally published February 10, 2016 at 10:04 PM with the headline "Room to Grow: Are your plants pruned and ready for spring? ."