Food & Drink

Look to side dishes for color, crunch and flavor

Easter is so early this year -- and comes on the heels of one seriously chilly winter. Citrus, honey, mustard, rosemary and a touch of curry grace this easy side dish -- Annaís Greek Potatoes.
Easter is so early this year -- and comes on the heels of one seriously chilly winter. Citrus, honey, mustard, rosemary and a touch of curry grace this easy side dish -- Annaís Greek Potatoes. The Washington Post

No matter which dish holds the center of your Easter table, chances are that the accompanying vegetables and sides will provide the color, crunch and flavor that bring everything together.

These recipes, from cookbook author Susie Middleton and executive chef Tony Chittum of Iron Gate in Washington, D.C., will fill that role with ease and grace.

EASTER RECIPES

Carrot-Fingerling Saute with Peas and Hazelnuts

3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon maple syrup

1/2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 tablespoon cut into 6 pieces and kept chilled in the refrigerator)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed

1 pound carrots, scrubbed well and cut into sticks about 2 inches long and no more than 1/2-inch thick

1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

10 to 12 ounces small fingerling potatoes, cut in half lengthwise, and if longer than 2 inches, cut in half again crosswise

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons no-salt-added chicken broth (may substitute water or a combination of broth and water)

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger root

1 cup shelled fresh peas, blanched (may substitute frozen/defrosted peas; see note)

2 to 3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon or mint

2 tablespoons finely chopped toasted hazelnuts

Serves six.

Combine the orange juice, lemon zest, balsamic vinegar, maple syrup, mustard and water in a small bowl.

Combine 1 tablespoon of the butter and the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large Dutch oven or deep, wide saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the carrots and 3/4 teaspoon of the salt; stir to coat, then cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently but gently, until the carrots are nicely browned and just tender when tested with the tip of a paring knife. Transfer the carrots to a plate.

Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to whatever fat is left in pot. (If there is no fat left in the pan, add up to 1 tablespoon of oil as well.) Once the butter has melted, arrange the fingerlings (to taste), cut sides down, in one layer. (If a few don't quite fit, no worries; just prop them up against the sides of the pot.) Season the potatoes with the remaining 3/4 teaspoon of salt. Partially cover (with the lid ajar) and cook, without stirring, until the potato pieces are a deep golden brown on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes.

Uncover and add the broth; increase the heat to medium-high. Once the liquid comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover and cook for 6 to 14 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the liquid has reduced to 2 or 3 tablespoons.

Uncover, add the garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring gently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Return the carrots to the pot, and add the peas and the orange juice mixture. Stir gently but thoroughly for 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Remove from the heat; stir in the remaining tablespoon of chilled butter pieces until just melted, then stir in 2 teaspoons of the tarragon or mint. (Taste; add more of the herb if you like, but reserve a little for a garnish.) Transfer to a platter or individual plates. Garnish with the hazelnuts and the remaining tarragon or mint; serve right away.

Note: Blanch the peas by cooking them in a pot of boiling water for no more than 1 1/2 minutes, then immediately drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water for no more than 2 minutes. Drain.

Speedy Collard Ribbons with Pickled Peppers

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar

1 pound (about 2 bunches) collard greens

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil

2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic

1 to 2 teaspoons minced pickled jalapeno peppers or other hot pepper

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for shaving or grating

Serves four to five.

Whisk together the honey and balsamic vinegar in a small bowl until the honey has dissolved.

Remove the collard leaves from their stems by running a knife along the stem on both sides. Rip the leaves completely in half lengthwise; this should yield about 8 ounces of collards. Rinse the leaves and dry them well. (Discard the stems or reserve them for another use.)

Working in batches, stack the leaves on top of each other, then roll them up tightly cigar-style, and, using a very sharp knife, slice them crosswise into thin ribbons about 1/8-inch wide.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add 1 teaspoon of the garlic; cook until softened, fragrant and just on the verge of turning brown, about 1 minute.

Stir in 1 teaspoon of the pickled peppers, then add half of the sliced greens and1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring to incorporate everything in the pan, until the greens turn bright green (at first) and then a darker green and are somewhat wilted, about 1 minute. (While cooking, use a spatula to lightly press the greens against the pan so they have direct contact with the heat.) Do not be tempted to cook the greens much longer, or they will begin to toughen. Remove from the heat; stir in half of the honey-vinegar mixture.

Transfer the greens to a warm platter.

Wipe out the pan; repeat the cooking process with the remaining oil, garlic, peppers (to taste), greens and the remaining1/4 teaspoon salt, then remove from the heat and stir in the remaining honey-vinegar mixture. Transfer the second batch to the warm platter; garnish all with finely grated cheese or cheese shavings.

Serve right away.

Quick-Roasted Beet and Carrot Jewels with Lime-Maple Dressing

12 ounces raw beets (any color), trimmed but not peeled, cut into 1/2-inch dice

12 ounces carrots, topped and scrubbed well, cut into 1/2-inch dice

4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon finely grated zest and 2 teaspoons juice, from 1 lime

2 teaspoons maple syrup

1 teaspoon blackberry, raspberry or other berry jam

1 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon chilled unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

3 tablespoons chopped golden raisins

1/3 cup toasted sliced almonds, lightly crushed

1/4 cup loosely packed small fresh parsley leaves, for garnish

Serves four.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 450 degrees. Line two heavy-duty baking sheets with parchment paper.

Put the beets and carrots in separate bowls; toss each with 2 teaspoons of oil and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Transfer each vegetable to separate baking sheets and spread in one layer. Roast until the veggies are tender and shrunken, about 20 minutes for carrots and 25 minutes for beets, rotating the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through the cooking.

Combine both roasted vegetables in a single mixing bowl.

Combine the lime juice and zest, the maple syrup, jam, balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir or whisk continuously until the jam has melted, the sauce is slightly more viscous and the mixture is hot but not boiling, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat; immediately add the cold butter. Swirl the pan until the butter has melted and the sauce becomes slightly creamy.

Stir in the raisins, then pour and scrape the mixture over the roasted vegetables. Toss gently to coat. Add half of the almonds and stir gently to blend. Transfer to a serving bowl; garnish with the remaining almonds and the parsley.

Anna's Greek Potatoes

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon honey

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon curry powder

Juice from 2 lemons

Juice from 1 orange

1/2 cup no-salt-added vegetable broth or water

35 ounces small waxy potatoes, scrubbed, each cut in half

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

Serves 12.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have a large baking dish at hand.

Combine the oil, mustard, honey, wine, paprika, curry powder, lemon and orange juices and the broth or water in a blender; puree to form a thin, emulsified sauce.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl along with the potatoes. Season lightly with salt and pepper; toss to coat evenly, then distribute the potatoes and the sauce mixture in the baking dish. Place the rosemary sprigs on top. Cover with aluminum foil; bake for 1 hour, then remove the foil and bake for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are fork-tender and lightly caramelized.

Discard the rosemary sprigs, if desired. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Orange Blossom Loukoumades

FOR THE SYRUP:

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

1/2 lemon, cut into wedges

One 3-inch cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon orange blossom water

1 cup honey

FOR THE LOUKOUMADES:

1 tablespoon (from 2 small packets) active dry yeast

1 cup water

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup whole or low-fat milk

2 tablespoons plus 4 cups olive oil, for frying

Serves 12.

For the syrup: Combine the sugar, water, lemon wedges and cinnamon stick in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved, to form a syrup.

Strain the syrup into a heatproof container; discard the solids. Add the orange blossom water and honey, stirring until the latter has dissolved. Let it sit at room temperature while you make the loukoumades. The yield is about 2 cups.

For the loukoumades: Sprinkle the yeast over half of the water in a small bowl; let it bloom while you mix the remaining ingredients.

Whisk together the flour, salt, sugar, the remaining 2 tablespoons of water, the milk and the 2 tablespoons of oil in a mixing bowl; add the yeast mixture and whisk to form a thick batter. Let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes; the batter will become airier.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 4 cups of oil in a narrow, deep saucepan over high heat to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with paper towels, then place a wire cooling rack over them.

Once the oil is hot, gently drop tablespoonfuls of the batter into the oil, about 4 at a time. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden brown, turning the loukoumades over as needed. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the loukoumades to the rack to drain briefly, then toss them in the syrup (in its pot) until evenly coated. Drain and return to the rack as you continue to fry, or, preferably drain briefly and serve right away.

This story was originally published March 22, 2016 at 9:07 PM with the headline "Look to side dishes for color, crunch and flavor ."

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