This Valentine's Day, say it with chocolate

The way to a man's heart, so they say, is through his stomach. And as Ogden Nash might have put it, candy is dandy, but chocolate is where it's at.

Flowers are fine, if you don't mind spending a hundred bucks for 12 lousy roses. But if you want to do Valentine's Day right, head for the kitchen with chocolate in your hands.

You can keep your oysters, your figs, your truffles. If you truly want to encourage romance, make something with chocolate in it.

For Valentine's Day this year, we whipped up two of our favorite chocolate desserts. Both taste divine. Both will lead your sweetheart (or potential sweetheart) to look at you with admiration, respect and maybe even love. It's chocolate we're talking about, after all. Prepared properly, chocolate can move mountains. And -- so appropriate for Valentine's Day -- eating is an unmatched sensual experience.

You can wow your favorite him or her with black and white cookies.

Essentially little cakes, the cookies are unusual enough and delectable enough for any occasion. For Valentine's Day, I modified the traditionally round shape of the cookies by cutting them in the shape of hearts. Simply press a heart-shaped cookie cutter into the cookies perhaps 15 or 30 seconds after they come out of the oven.

For the most divinely decadent dessert of all, you could make a chocolate fudge pie. In some senses, it is the ultimate expression of chocolate.

Chocolate Fudge Pie

FOR THE CRUST:

1 1/2 cups (7 ounces) finely ground Oreo cookies (see note)

4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) butter

FOR THE FILLING:

3 large eggs

6 tablespoons granulated sugar

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1/3 cup (2 3/4 ounces) heavy whipping cream

10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (up to 70 percent cacao), finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

For the topping:

1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream (see note)

1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar6 tablespoons granulated sugar

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1/3 cup (2 3/4 ounces) heavy whipping cream

10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (up to 70 percent cacao), finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

FOR THE TOPPING:

1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream (see note)

1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Serves eight.

For the crust: Preheat oven to 350 degrees and place a rack in the middle of the oven. Place cookie crumbs in a medium bowl and add melted butter. Stir until all the crumbs are evenly moistened. Pour into a 9-inch round pie pan. Use the heel of your hand, a tart tamper or the bottom of a drinking glass to press the crumbs from the center outward into an even layer across the bottom of the pan. Use your thumbs to press the crumbs up the side of the pan and level them at the rim.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely. This crust may be stored at room temperature, covered in plastic wrap.

For the filling: Bring 2 inches of water to a low boil over medium-low heat in a medium saucepan. Place the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and whisk by hand to blend. Place the bowl over the simmering water (the bottom of the bowl must not touch the water) and whisk constantly to prevent the eggs from scrambling. Heat until the mixture reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer and the eggs look light in color and texture.

To check the temperature, remove the bowl from the heat so the mixture doesn't overcook while you're waiting for the thermometer to register. If the mixture has not yet reached 160 degrees, wash the thermometer (to prevent contamination from bacteria the next time you take the temperature), dry it, and then put the bowl back over the water and continue to whisk.

This step can take anywhere from 10 to 15 minutes, so be patient. Each time you check the temperature it will take longer to heat.

When the eggs reach 160 degrees, remove the bowl from the saucepan (keep water simmering) and beat on high speed for 3 minutes.

While the eggs are beating, place the butter, cream and chocolate in a medium bowl and set the bowl in the saucepan over the simmering water. Let it sit for 1 minute, then gently stir until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and wipe the bottom of the bowl dry.

Add the chocolate mixture to the eggs, lower the speed to medium, and beat until there are no streaks of egg visible. Scrape down the bowl and beat in the vanilla extract. Remove the bowl from the mixer and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, making sure that any streaks of egg are blended into the chocolate. Scrape the filling into the prepared pie crust and smooth the top. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes.

For the topping: Whip the cream and sugar into firm peaks. Spread evenly over the top of the pie. Serve with raspberries or a raspberry coulis, if you wish.

Note: You could use a store-bought Oreo-cookie crust and store-bought whipped cream if you choose, but the taste will suffer.

Black and White Cookies

FOR THE COOKIES:

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

14 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) unsalted butter, cool but not cold

11/4 cups granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

3/4 cup buttermilk

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest

FOR THE FROSTINGS:

3 3/4 cup confectioners' sugar

4 to 5 tablespoons whole milk

3 tablespoons heavy cream

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons dark unsweetened cocoa powder

Makes about 18 cookies.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar at medium-high speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and add the eggs and egg yolk one at time, beating briefly after each addition. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl again, and mix on low speed for 10 seconds.

Add the flour mixture in three parts, alternating with the buttermilk in two parts, mixing briefly after each addition. Scrape down the sides. Add the vanilla and lemon zest, and mix on low speed for a few more seconds.

Drop1/4 cup of dough (a1/4-cup ice cream scoop works well) onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving about 3 inches around each cookie. You'll be able to fit about 6 cookies onto each sheet.

Bake the cookies for about 17 minutes, rotating the sheets between the oven racks halfway through the baking time, until the edges are golden brown and the tops spring back when gently touched. If desired, cut heart shapes out of each cookie 15 to 30 seconds after they come out of the oven. Place the baking sheets on wire racks to cool for 5 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the racks to cool completely.

To make the frosting: In a large bowl, whisk together the confectioners' sugar, milk, cream and vanilla. If the mixture is too thick, add milk by the teaspoon until the desired consistency is reached. Pour half of the frosting (about 3/4 cup) into a separate bowl and add the cocoa powder and 1 teaspoon of water. Stir to incorporate the cocoa powder. The chocolate frosting should be about the same consistency as the "white" frosting. If it is too thick, add water by the teaspoon until you get the right balance.

Use an offset spatula to spread white frosting on half of the flat side of each cookie. Let stand until almost set, about 20 minutes. Clean the spatula and use it to spread chocolate frosting over the unfrosted half of each cookie. (If the frosting thickens up while you are working, whisk it until it loosens). Let the frosted cookies set completely, about 1 hour, before serving them.

Note: These cookies should be eaten the day they are made, but may be kept in an airtight container for up to three days.

Chocolate Mousse

6 ounces semisweet chocolate

2 tablespoons Kahlua

1 tablespoon orange juice

2 egg yolks

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 cup heavy cream

Serves three to four.

Melt the chocolate in the Kahlua and orange juice in a small saucepan over very low heat, stirring occasionally. Set aside.

Put the egg yolks and eggs in a blender with vanilla and sugar. Blend for 2 minutes at medium high speed. Add the heavy cream and blend for 30 more seconds. Add the melted chocolate mixture and blend until smooth. Pour into a bowl or small individual cups. Refrigerate. Serve with whipped cream or raspberries.

This story was originally published February 9, 2016 at 9:52 PM with the headline "This Valentine's Day, say it with chocolate ."