My Grandma’s Empanadas gets star turn

Q&A with Rikki Waite

Residence: Bonaire

Occupation: Owner-operator, My Grandma’s Empanadas

Q: Why is a television crew coming to your restaurant June 21?

A: PBS is shooting for their tasteMAKERS program here. TasteMAKERS highlights growers, makers and artisans around the United States they say are defining the flavor of American food and drink. It’s pretty incredible we can be a part. The particular program isn’t mainly about us but about Oliver Farm in Pitts, Ga., whose cold-pressed, unrefined, non-GMO sunflower oil we use in probably 95 percent of our products.

Q: So the episode is on them and you’re an example of people using their products?

A: That’s it. They’re the land, the extractors and oil makers and we’re the table it goes to. They could have picked anybody to show how their products are used, but we’re among those they chose. We love them so much!

Q: Why?

A: Empanadas are fried and fried foods can have a stigma. Most think of deep fried food in heavy, unhealthy oils. That’s not us. Our empanadas are very lightly pan fried by hand in Oliver’s cold-pressed sunflower oil, and it’s a huge, huge difference.

Q: And it fits your philosophy at My Grandma’s Empanadas?

A: In so many ways. First, they’re local and we’re dedicated to using local farmers, local products, local producers and local services as much as possible to support them and build community. We do that while providing the best possible, greatest tasting, healthful food we can and being an enjoyable place to come to. Using local growers means we’re getting fresh, healthy products and that’s definitely the case with the sunflower oil from Clay and Valerie Oliver. And they’re just one, great example. Our meats are local so we know how animals are raised, fed and treated. Our produce and other products are sustainable, local products from vendors who are great people.

Q: How do you connect? With the Olivers for instance?

A: I met Clay at the International City Farmer’s Market, where I first set up a little table to sell my empanadas. I started using grape seed oil, then later Jodi Daley, who heads up the market, gave me my first gallon of the sunflower oil and I’ve been using it ever since. Great flavor.

Q: That fits in with your story as a local, growing business doing things differently. How long ago did you started at the International City Farmer’s Market?

A: Three years in May. We’ll be at this location two years in October. We just grew from tables at the market to here and didn’t take a loan. Part of what Jodi encourages besides local produce is local entrepreneurship and new businesses springing from the markets. We’re an example and Jodi is too, with her newly opened Bodega Brew café-coffee shop in Perry. In fact, tasteMAKERS is shooting there, too.

Q: Who is your clientele?

A: We’re at 120 S. Armed Forces Blvd. in Warner Robins, near Watson Boulevard and right across Ga. 247 from Robins Air Force Base, so we really love our military and civil-service customers. But we draw from the whole community. Customers are local people who love the farmer’s market, love fresh, real, healthy-style food and love celebrating local community and endeavor. We’re open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and at first only weekdays. Recently, we added Saturdays because so many wanted to come but couldn’t during the week because they were teachers or lived in Macon or something.

Q: Does the highway play a part?

A: We get travelers who stop in and make us a favorite because our food is unique and really is that good. Plus, people seek us out. People from all over the county come saying they heard about our authentic Panamanian food — my grandma’s empanadas and our other dishes. I’ve literally had Panamanians, men, cry because they said it tastes like home.

Q: Speaking of your address, is there history here?

A: From what I’m told, it’s the oldest commercial building in town, built in 1941. Not sure what it was built for then but the last use came in 1971 when it was the Wagon Wheel bar on what people called Front Street. It was a street people stayed clear of. It took a lot of transforming because it was filthy and dark with windows boarded up on purpose. It’s so cool, though, bringing it back from being an eyesore to a place that’s bright and fun and great for families and kiddies. It’s perfectly safe here.

Q: Are they really your grandma’s empanadas?

A: Absolutely. I’ve eaten them all my life.

Q: Her name?

A: Evelia Mills. My grandfather was an American working in the Canal Zone. My grandmother was an amazing cook who brought her whole family together for meals. That’s part of what created the passion I have for this place. It helped me get closure for her passing when we cut our ribbon here. It kind of keeps her memory alive. My mother had an Air Force career and this was our last station; that’s what brought me to Warner Robins.

Q: And ultimately to opening a restaurant and being on TV?

A: So exciting, right? We’re thrilled to show off Oliver Farm’s oils when the program airs in the fall but also to showcase our own culinary artistry and the place we’ve created with our own, fun style. It takes hard work, such hard work, but it’s so worth it.

This story was originally published June 20, 2018 at 12:20 PM with the headline "My Grandma’s Empanadas gets star turn."