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2 egg yolks, beaten

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk

1 (13.5-ounce) can cream of coconut

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 cup white rum, or to taste

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves and/or 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Makes 12 (4-ounce) servings.

Combine egg yolks with evaporated milk in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Whisking constantly, cook until mixture reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer and will coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a large mixer bowl and add remaining ingredients. Beat 3 minutes. Pour into a glass decanter, cover tightly, and chill thoroughly.

Nutritional information per serving: 305 calories (36 percent from fat), 12.5 g fat (8.9 g saturated, 2.4 g monounsaturated), 59.3 mg cholesterol, 6.9 g protein, 30.3 g carbohydrates, 0.8 g fiber, 107.1 mg sodium.

The Cuban variation on the theme is creme de vie, for which a reader told us she obtained a recipe at the 1935 inauguration of a Bacardi museum in Santiago de Cuba. That version calls for 6 egg yolks, a can of condensed milk, half a bottle of white Bacardi rum, lime juice to taste and 1 pounds sugar melted to just before caramelizing.