Restaurant News & Reviews

More bounce to the ounce at 20’s

Stop by 20’s Pub ’N Subs for great bar fare like this cheeseburger with homemade chips, left, or a fried catfish sub with krinkle cut fries.
Stop by 20’s Pub ’N Subs for great bar fare like this cheeseburger with homemade chips, left, or a fried catfish sub with krinkle cut fries. Woody Marshall/The Telegraph

In college, I volunteered as a peer tutor, helping other students with class work.

One day I was reading an essay someone had brought me. It was one of those “read a short story and critique it” assignments. At one point, the essay pointed out something a character wrongly believed, and these words appeared: “But, in verisimilitude, the ... .”

Ah, the dangers of writing with a thesaurus. But, in reality, not every word you find there is a precise synonym.

So, to be as precise as I can, I will shun my thesaurus and risk derision by using the actual word that came to my mind when my neighbor Sue Anne asked me what I thought of the food at 20’s Pub ’N Subs.


Hey, you try to replicate a taste experience using ink pressed on dried wood pulp.

What made the food bounce? I’d say fresh ingredients spiced and mixed just right and then served hot.

Take the Ultimate Nachos that we had as an appetizer. When you get a nacho platter with meat, cheese, cream, tomatoes, salsa, etc., you usually get something globby. But the nachos at 20’s were bouncy. We could tell it was a hot and fresh mixture put together moments before it landed on our table.

It was the same with the wings appetizer. It had the bounce of sauce cooked with the chicken wings, not poured over or dipped into later.

Other appetizers at 20’s include fried okra, onion rings, fried ravioli, steamed dumplings and loaded potatoes.

But 20’s signature servings are its sandwiches. My wife, my friend Keith Demko, my sister Elizabeth Copeland and I had the hot dogs, Black-N-Bleu Chicken, Philly Steak Sub, Classic Sub and Red Pepper Bacon Swiss Burger.

Flat-out bouncy all, we agreed. I mean, literally. I pushed down on the Swiss burger and it bounced back up. That baby was fresh, and quickly consumed.

That burger was the daily special, which I’m told will, well, change daily. So the menu should be as fresh as the food.

As for the dining experience beyond the food, 20’s has a rather bland bar look. And, in fact, does have a fully stocked, well-used bar. But the staff is as down-home friendly as a living-room porch swing.

And while the place isn’t much visually, aurally (I did that without a thesaurus, just so you know) it’s splendiferous (now that one did come from the thesaurus, under “wonderful”). They play an amazing mix of tunes. In one stretch we heard Marvin Gaye, followed by Hank Williams Sr., followed by Alicia Keys.

So, good food, good tunes, good folks and, I should not neglect to say, all at a good price.

Actually, a terrific price, if you price it at bounce per ounce.

To contact writer Randy Waters, call 744-4240.

20's Pub 'N Subs

Address: 3076 Riverside Drive, Suite 1200

Phone: 475-5860

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Fridays, 1 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturdays (with a breakfast buffet 10 a.m.-1 p.m.), 1 p.m.-8 p.m. Sundays

Price: Burger and sandwich platters around $7, appetizers from $4 to $10.

Payment: Cash, credit or debit

Alcohol: Yes

Kids’ menu: No

Smoking: Yes

Noise level: Moderate

Health rating: 100

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