Restaurant News & Reviews

Bonefish serves it up with class

The Bonefish Grill specializes in seafood dishes like this plate of grilled grouper with warm mango salsa and steamed vegetables.
The Bonefish Grill specializes in seafood dishes like this plate of grilled grouper with warm mango salsa and steamed vegetables. The Telegraph

When you order the lobster tails at the Bonefish Grill, the dipping butter comes in a metal cone that has a small flame flickering under it. The butter bubbles. My wife, who puts away lobsters like the FBI puts away mobsters, had never seen this before and said it was a brilliant cure for the lobster-eater's dilemma of slowly congealing butter.

When you ask the waiter at the Bonefish Grill about their steaks and he tells you to go ahead and try the center-cut sirloin because their wood-grill cooking method is going to make it delicious, he is telling no tales.

When you enter the Bonefish Grill, you do so through a revolving door. It's like something out of a '30s MGM musical. It says, "You're going to find some class here."

When you check out the menu at the Bonefish Grill, the prices have just one decimal number. Now I might know as much about class as a 12-year-old in the middle of summer vacation, but we all know that "classy" is just a classy way of saying "slick." And I know slick, just like I know the Saucy Gulf Shrimp we ordered was $7.9 and for some reason that was so much neater than $7.95. (The saucy shrimp came with feta cheese, which I'd never had with shrimp before. It made for a wonderful combination.)

We also had the crab cakes appetizers. It was, alas, exactly $11. So, no cool dangling decimal there - just the tastiest crab cakes I've had north of Savannah.

The lobster tails were the most expensive item on the menu at $28.7. The sirloin was $13.9. The rest of the entrees, which include such slickly named choices as Snake River Rainbow Trout, Diablo Shrimp Fettuccine and Gulf Grouper Piccata, fall in between those two prices.

The restaurant has had a high profile since even before it opened with the majority of the other stores at the Shoppes at River Crossing earlier this year. So I've heard from a number of friends (and even people too wise and/or normal to be my friend) who have eaten there. The consensus out (and about) there is that Macon has another top-notch restaurant.

As I like to say when someone asks me what it's like at the Bonefish Grill, "It was slick. Baby liked the hot butter."

Bonefish Grill

5080 Riverside Drive

Three and a half stars

Phone: 477-5256

Hours: 4 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday.

Payment: Cash, credit cards, checks

Price range: $8 to $30

Reservations: No

Dress: Casual

Children's menu: Yes

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Health code: 100

Alcohol: Yes

To contact writer Randy Waters, call 744-4240.

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