Restaurant News & Reviews

Perry's Grillmaster lives up to its name

Though the meat is the main thing at Grillmaster in Perry, sides like green beans and potato salad also satisfy.
Though the meat is the main thing at Grillmaster in Perry, sides like green beans and potato salad also satisfy.

There's nothing like a heaping plate of fresh barbecue to soothe your hunger pangs for meat.

In Perry, the owners of The Grillmaster Meat Market are serving up a menu worth looking at for all you barbecue aficionados out there.

Barbecue pork, ribs, beef brisket and chicken; what you'll find at any standard barbecue restaurant. It's simple, just the way I like things.

I suspect Grillmaster already has a loyal following since I'm told the place has been open about a year. For awhile during my travels to Perry, I'd seen a hot dog sign sitting in front of that lonely building. So sad to see a perfectly good space sitting empty. I'm told it used to be occupied by a Tastee Freez; now there's nostalgia for you.

You can see everyone coming and going in the place. There are large windows that span the entire front of the building, some picnic tables in the front parking lot and a monstrous smoker on wheels that puffs out the most delicious smells.

Inside, posters and framed pictures dot the walls. But I digress; I'm not there for the decorations.

The plates, starting at $7.99, include a choice of barbecue smoked pork, dry-rubbed ribs, which include a portion of four or six, sliced Angus beef brisket, a half chicken and a combo plate.

All plates come with a choice of either cole slaw or green beans and barbecue beans or potato salad, two slices of pillowy-soft bread and pickles.

Sounds limited, but they do it right with these four sides. There's also a separate order of brunswick stew and what's known as a Larry Walker special. You'll have to drive there to find out what that means.

The baked beans are thick and rich and have a sweet, hearty, smoked flavor.

But oh the Grillmaster potato salad! My new best friend. Imagine hand-sliced potatoes dressed in a creamy mixture of what appears to be smoked bacon slivers and sour cream infused with a ranch flavor.

My husband tried it and he doesn't even like potato salad. I had to stop him from eating all of mine. Good news though: You can order a larger portion to take home, which I readily did.

What can I say about the ribs? One of my biggest pet peeves is ordering these and getting exactly that: Ribs - as in no meat whatsoever. Grillmaster serves up a dry rub, smoked and juicy with all kinds of spices. Nothing harsh or spicy. And yes, there's plenty of meat to be found.

The beef brisket and the shredded pork tossed in Grillmaster's special tangy sauce are both awesome in between two slices of bread. Wash it all down with a cup filled with shaved ice and sweet tea and know what? Grillmaster rocks.

Since it is a meat market of sorts, cuts are available if you're interested, and they cater. Call for more information.

Although I was somewhat sad when my meal ended, my tummy reminded me what a truly delicious gem Perry has in Grillmaster.

The Grillmaster Meat Market

1509 Sam Nunn Blvd., Perry, at Exit 136 on Interstate 75

Three stars

Phone: (478) 218-7427

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

Payment: Cash, credit cards

Price range: Sides start at $1.79, plates from $7.99-$10.99

Reservations: No

Dress: Casual

Children's menu: No

Vegetarian selections: No

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Alcohol: No

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