Dovetail stands out for fresh, fine dining

Telegraph correspondentFebruary 1, 2013 

Dovetail bills itself as “crafted cuisine” and the food certainly lives up to that description.

With plenty of choices for fine dining in Macon, Dovetail’s farm-to-table menu makes it a standout among other local spots.

The downtown restaurant aims to locally source most of its ingredients and this includes everything from basics such as vegetables and meats to more complex items such as olive oil and distilled spirits.

The restaurant is the creation of Chad Evans and Wes Griffith, who wanted to expand on what they’d done with locally sourcing some menu items at the Rookery, which they bought and revamped in 2009.

Dovetail is located above the Rookery and the two restaurants share a front door.

On separate visits to Dovetail, we could find no flaw in anything we tried.

The price point on some of the entrees is on the high end, but Dovetail offers “Starters” and “Small Plates” that let you maximize your dollar while tasting different things.

For Starters, we loved the Put-Ups, which consists of four dips to try on warm bread. This sampler includes a bacon marmalade that I could eat by the bowlful and a lima bean hummus that is a delicious twist on the usual chickpea hummus.

The Cheese Plate also was a good starter with some exotic, tasty stuff from a local dairy.

I am sure all of the Small Plates are good, but the Ham Fritters are exceptional. They are yummy fried balls of meat and cheese with a tiny hint of sweet.

The Veal Tenderloin small plate also was excellent, and it came with an interesting combination of cream corn, grapefruit and greens that really complemented the meat.

The Pork Rib Chop entree was a hands-down favorite. The meat was so tender and flavorful it felt like you were eating a filet.

The Smoked BBQ Chicken also was excellent. It is small whole chicken served with a knife. A friend said the presentation kind of took her aback but the dish itself was a carnivore’s dream.

Both meat entrees were large enough to feed two!

The farm-to-table emphasis means the menu changes based on the seasons, availability and new recipes from Doug Sanneman, who is the executive chef. Sanneman has a knack for pulling together items that seem like strange combinations at first glance but work when it all comes together on your taste buds.

Dovetail’s staff also includes pastry chef Ashley Dunn, who puts together some amazing desserts. We tried the Sweet Tea Creme Brulee, the Apple Cheddar Cobbler and the Persimmon Ginger Tart. All of them were delicious. My personal favorite was the tart because the ginger sauce was just so yummy.

This review would be remiss if I didn’t mention Wayne Temple, who is Dovetail’s “mixologist.” He is known for unique drink combinations and making his own barrel-aged cocktails. Dovetail also offers a large selection of whiskey and wines with generous pours.

Beyond the food, Dovetail has a cozy, lodge-like atmosphere. The light fixtures are new but look antique and reclaimed wood from the original flooring was used to build the bar and decorate the walls.

Reservations are recommended, but the bar does offer first-come, first-served seating. Dovetail is a great place to celebrate a special occasion, splurge a bit on a nice dinner or just enjoy drinks and dessert. The food’s four-star taste screams for a dress and suit, but you won’t feel out of place in your jeans.


Address: 543 Cherry St.

Phone: )478) 238-4693

Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Payment: Cash, credit, debit

Smoking: No

Alcohol: Yes

Kids Menu: No

Noise Level: Low

Wheelchair accessible: No

Health Rating: 91

Price Range: Entrees start at $18; Starters start at $7; Small Plates start at $8

Rating: Four stars

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