There’s an elderly gentleman sitting in the corner booth, alone at Steve’s Corner Café. Its dark inside -- too dark to see what he ordered -- but the light above him illuminates his face, and he is not unhappy.

A framed poster of the late, great NASCAR driver Dale Earnhardt watches over him. There are several NASCAR posters on the walls here.

By 6:10 p.m., he is finished with his meal, grabs his check and heads to the cashier. Fifteen minutes later, the restaurant is full of people. A young couple takes that booth. The young man, donning an airbrushed trucker hat, sits where the older one once was. So it goes.

In a place like Steve’s Corner Café, the food becomes secondary to the experience. It’s like this at most places -- as long as the food is alright, we tend to go where we feel most comfortable. And Steve’s is probably one of the most comfortable places you can go, a no-frills affair that doesn’t distract you from your date night attempt to actually speak with your lovely spouse. It’s almost a Zen response to the explosion of restaurants that cover their walls in tangentially related memorabilia and a couple dozen TV sets.

Yes there are TVs at Steve’s and they have stuff on the walls, but it still comes across as an eatery less interested in ornamentation than the main attraction: Your dining experience.

Chances are good that whatever you ordered at Steve’s will be fried. By accident, on my first visit, everything I ordered was that way, which I like because I’m from here, but which will likely give my bride cause for an “I want you around so you have to take care of your heart” speech. (Note: My argument that eating indulgent food is good for one’s metaphorical heart has yet to make a dent.)

As an appetizer, I had fried pickles -- really enjoyed them -- and followed it with fried green tomatoes because I’ll know all I really need to know about a restaurant based on how they handle that Middle Georgia staple. My main course was fried shrimp, the 10-piece daily lunch special, because it seemed like the house specialty. (I could’ve gotten grilled shrimp -- and on a later visit did -- but as I said earlier, I’m from here. I like things fried.)

These weren’t huge shrimp, but they were hardy enough and certainly tasty enough that you finish satisfied. (And after two appetizers, perhaps a little sleepy.)

The Mrs. and I returned for a date night, to give the evening menu a whirl. This time, I was on better behavior (nutritionally), selecting the combination broiled tilapia and sautéed shrimp. My lady ordered a batch of grilled shrimp, and we each had the house salad and cheese grits on the side.

As an “official” food critic, I was able to con my wife out of a couple of her grilled shrimp. Again, not huge shrimp, but they had a powerful taste.

My shrimp were sautéed in white wine with butter and garlic, and as a lover of sauces, I was impressed. The tilapia was good, too, seasoned similarly to the grilled shrimp -- salty and a bit of spice, like a sort of blackened flavor.

I’d been tempted to try the steak on our date, but I was trying to make an impression with my health-conscious approach, so I saved the “turf” for another trip.

The ribeye, which comes in 12 oz. and 18 oz offerings, is sizeable, juicy and well-seasoned. Tastes great coming off the grill.

Would I go back to Steve’s? Yes, especially for a lunch with a couple friends with whom I’d want to catch up. It’s a good environment for that sort of thing, and I know they wouldn’t complain about the food.

Oh and those fried green tomatoes are good, too. Just so you know.

Steve’s Corner Café

Address: 3955 Arkwright Road, Macon, GA 31210

Phone: 254-7291

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 5-9 p.m. Wednesdays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Payment: Cash, credit

Smoking: No

Alcohol: Yes

Noise Level: Medium

Wheelchair Accessible: Yes

Price Range: $5.25 to $21.95