GORDON -- The Front Porch, a pick-up window joint in Gordon owned by Speaker of the House John Boehner’s brother, is not the type of place you would drive more than 20 miles to visit (though I did to review it). It’s not the kind of place you would go for a gourmet meal, but if you’re close by, it’s a good place to pick up a quick lunch or dinner.
When we first arrived, we accidentally tried to go through the door, until we realized that would get us straight into the kitchen. Oh, so that’s why it’s called the Front Porch -- because it’s literally a front porch and nothing but. It was freezing outside when we visited, so we took our food home, but I bet it’s a great spot to sit and watch the trains go by on a spring afternoon.
If you’re going to be in the Gordon area, you should try the Porch Burger, a hand-pattied burger that will remind you how much you like to eat grilled meat. It’s a steal at $3.99. Instead of the ordinary fries with that, try the thin-cut slaw or onion rings instead.
We also liked the chicken and dumplings, full of chunky chicken and peppery thick dumplings. This hit the spot on a cold evening and was great with the buttery cornbread hoe cake that came with it (I could eat a whole plate of those).
We also tried the chili, which was a little spicy but just right on a cold night. It was also a good deal at $2.69 for a small or $3.29 for the large. All the stories on the internet about the Front Porch mention Greg Boehner’s desire to bring Cincinnati-style chili spaghetti to the South, but it wasn’t listed on the menu or specials board.
Our least favorite item was the fried shrimp and fries plate. At about $7.50, the plate was over-fried and under-flavored, tasting like it came straight out of a frozen box.
Other items you might try are the hot dogs with chili, chili and cheese, or chili and slaw; chicken wings; chicken strips and corn dogs. Healthier choices include a chicken salad cold plate or a salad with grilled chicken. They also have a Club sandwich for $4.99, a Super Club for $6.25, a BLT for $3.49 and a BBQ sandwich for $2.99.
So if you’re driving through Wilkinson County and have a hankerin’ for tea so sweet the sugar hits your tongue before the tea does, look for the Don’t Tread On Me flag hanging on a porch across from the railroad tracks. And if you’re lucky, you might even get to shake the hand of the brother of the third most powerful person in the country.
The Front Porch
Two and a half stars
Address: 260 Milledgeville Road, Gordon
Phone: (478) 628-3573
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10:30 am.-3 p.m. Saturday
Payment: Cash, credit
Price range: $1.15 and up
Smoking: Yes
Alcohol: No
Kids Menu: Yes
Noise Level: Low
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Health Rating: 87
