MILLEDGEVILLE — Tucked away in the lower level of a building on Heritage Road is Pryme Steakhouse — one of the newest additions to Milledgeville’s dining scene.
On a recent Saturday evening, the restaurant was about half full. The atmosphere is dark, cozy and comfortable — with a mixture of private booths and larger tables.
We started our meal by sharing a couple of appetizers — crab cakes ($10) and onion petals ($6).
The crab cakes were absolutely delicious. They were heavy on crab and light on breading — just the way I like them. They weren’t spicy, but the sauce that was drizzled over them had a little kick to it.
The onion petals also got a thumbs-up from the table. They were big, thick chunks of onion that were fried just right — meaning the tasty part that’s bad for you didn’t fall off the onion like it does at some places. The spicy horseradish sauce served with them was good.
Before the entrées came out, our server brought us a basket of yeast rolls, which was one of my favorite parts of the meal. They weren’t your standard rolls — think tiny little baked rolls the size of hush puppies. I had to make myself stop eating them.
My friends tried a couple of Pryme’s Angus beef steaks. One ordered the New York Strip ($18) cooked medium. He said it was seasoned well, cooked perfectly and was “a really good steak.” He ordered steak fries as his side item, and he liked those as well.
My other friend, who typically likes very lean steaks, had planned to order the filet mignon. At the last minute, she changed her mind and ordered one of the specials — a New York Strip that was covered in a blue cheese sauce ($22). She said the blue cheese sauce was wonderful, but the steak was too fatty for her taste. She ordered cheddar mashed potatoes as a side item and said they were good, and not very cheesy.
There’s more to the menu than steaks, as Pryme offers chicken, fish, salads and vegetarian options. I ordered the shrimp and grits ($13).
The shrimp were large and flavorful. About a dozen of them, which were covered in a spicy, creamy sauce, were served over a big pile of grits. The dish as a whole was yummy.
The main complaint I have about Pryme is that the entrées don’t come with a salad. You can order a side salad for a few dollars more, but I really think a $18-$25 steak should include a basic salad.
Overall, Pryme Steakhouse was pretty good. If I’m ever in Milledgeville and have a craving for shrimp and grits, I may go back.
Pryme Steakhouse
2 1/2 stars
Address: 3010 Heritage Road, Milledgeville
Phone: (478) 451-0160
Hours: 5 p.m.-until, Wednesday-Saturday
Payment: Cash, credit
Alcohol: Yes, full bar
Kids menu: Yes
Noise level: Moderate
Price range: $6-$25
Health rating: 100