Texas Cattle back in saddle with familiar feel

I was excited several months ago to hear that Texas Cattle Co., one of my favorite restaurants in my early days in Macon, was coming back.

Sure it wouldn’t be on Riverside Drive — and there wouldn’t be an in-house brewery — but it would still be good old Texas Cattle, right?

Yes and no, it seems.

I dined at the new location, which is on Houston Road. The restaurant is spacious, and it was packed on a recent weeknight.

The menu is very similar to the old Texas Cattle Co. Steaks ($14-$16), burgers and sandwiches ($6-$8), and seafood ($13-15) dominate the menu. You can also get salad, chicken or even pasta.

Our table of four started out with the loaded nachos ($5.95) as an appetizer. It was a big plate of chips covered in beef, tomatoes, lettuce, cheese and jalapeños. Served with salsa, sour cream and guacamole on the side, they were delicious. The chips didn’t get soggy, and they were just “sloppy” enough.

My friends all ordered steaks – it is Texas CATTLE Co., after all. The beef was met with uneven reviews.

One friend ordered the Brewmaster’s Cut, which is a sirloin. He ordered it medium and said it was cooked just right and seasoned well. He gave it a thumbs-up.

Another friend ordered the N.Y. Strip. He said it had a good flavor, but he ordered it medium-rare and it came out medium. He really liked the fries that accompanied the steak, saying they were well seasoned without being salty.

My other friend ordered the Casey’s Filet, and she requested it medium. It came out well done. Sure, we could have sent it back, but we’re really not those kind of people.

I broke from the group and tried the Rio Ribs ($16.95). Our waiter warned me that it was a full rack and would be a ton of meat. He wasn’t exaggerating — it was probably the biggest portion of ribs I’ve ever had.

I was surprised by the flavor of the sauce, which tasted like a ketchup or tomato-based sauce that you’d find on meatloaf. It had onions and hints of citrus. Not bad, but not the smoky flavor that I prefer. Next time, I think I’ll try a burger.

I ordered fries as my side item. While I agree with my friend that they were seasoned well, they were limp. Fries should be crispy.

One thing surprised me about the entrees at Texas Cattle Co. They don’t come with salads. Not a huge deal, but if you’re paying $15 for a steak, it should come with more than one side item.

Overall, I’m glad Texas Cattle Co. is back. While my meal wasn’t the best I’ve had, I would eat there again if I’m in the neighborhood.

Judging from the healthy weeknight crowd, it’s been warmly received in south Bibb, so maybe Texas Cattle Co. has found its 2009 niche.

Texas Cattle Co.

Two and a half stars

Address: 5797 Houston Road,

Phone: 785-6565

Hours: 11 a.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday; noon-10 p.m. Saturday; and noon-9 p.m. Sunday

Payment: Cash, credit cards

Smoking: No

Alcohol: Yes

Kids menu: Yes

Noise level: Medium

Health rating: 93