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Friday, Nov. 06, 2009

Twelve 81 needs to step its culinary game up

- Special to The Telegraph
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Not all restaurant ideas are cut out for the real world. Twelve 81 on Houston Lake Road in Warner Robins is one that should maybe be on the chopping block.

Both of the times we went, the restaurant was pretty much empty. And at 8 p.m. on a Thursday night, just about every place in Warner Robins is happening, except this one and for good reason.

The restaurant decor looked hardly like a restaurant, and instead more like a formal living room, not at all a place to dine. If by chance the restaurant filled up, I would worry about the sound level. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

The menu had at least six different kinds of regional foods. Asian, Cajun, Italian, barbecue, Latin, seafood, and American style all were scattered about the menu, making it a hodgepodge of cuisines.

The lunch menu has two sides, one for $7.99 plates and one for $5.99 plates. The $7.99 side includes items like a fish sandwich, chicken cordon bleu, turkey burger, Mandarin grilled chicken, and fried shrimp. The $5.99 side includes a chicken breast sandwich, chef’s salad, chicken wings, country fried steak, and soup and salad. Both prices come with a choice of one side. I recommend the garlic mashers, the one thing that impressed me.

The dinner menu is much more diverse. Some starters include Jack Sticks, which is like a spicy mozzarella stick, for $7.49, lobster bites for $7.49, spring rolls for $6.99, tater skins for $6.99 and queso dip for $5.99.

When we visited, we had fried freen tomatoes for $6.99 and gator bites for $7.49. The tomatoes were neither cut nor battered in house; however they were cooked in house, deep-fried. They tasted mediocre; there was no flavor that spoke out or made me want more, and I would’ve rather had them skillet fried. The gator bites were chewy, and again lacking flavor.

Entrees include salads like the Far East Salad for $9.49 and the Georgia Salad for $8.99. The pasta section is a “make your own pasta” routine that includes sauces like marinara, Romano and alfredo, all for $8.99.

There are a few options for steak and ribs, all priced between $11.99 and $16.99. Friday and Saturday at 5 p.m., prime rib is served for $15.99. We had the ribeye steak for $16.99, which claimed to be 14 oz. on the menu. It very well may have been 14 oz., however, it was only 1/2 inch thick. So the “grilled to your liking” claim was impossible unless you like it well done.

Some other entrees include New Orleans chicken for $11.99, seared sashimi tuna for $15.50, baked tortilla tilapia for $14.50 and mesquite grilled salmon for $15.50.

We also ate the stuffed flounder for $15.50, which was soggy in the middle.

There were wide choices of steak burgers on the menu. We had the Big T burger, which wasn’t horrible, yet it wasn’t impressive either. It reminded me of a burger made at a backyard grill out. The bun resembled something bought at Winn-Dixie, and the toppings were brought out to you in their plastic bottles. If you charge $8.49 for a simple burger, you can at least put the toppings and condiments on the side in tins.

The world of restaurants has high competition, Twelve 81 needs to step it up to make it in today’s market. And in this situation, if you can’t “make” the heat, get out of the kitchen.

Twelve 81

One and a half stars

Address: 1281 South Houston lake Road, Warner Robins

Phoner: (478) 988-0344

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Sunday

Kids menu: Yes

Vegetarian selections: Yes

Handicapped accessible: Yes

Alcohol: Yes

Dress: Casual

Reservations: No

Noise level: Low

Price range: $3.49-$ 16.99

Health rating: 95

Payment: Cash, credit


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