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Friday, Aug. 21, 2009

Lemongrass a good addition, but where’s the heat?

I’ve enjoyed every meal I’ve had at Lemongrass.

And, yet, weighed against the months of anticipation that came with the announcement that DOWNTOWN MACON WAS GETTING A THAI RESTAURANT, I can’t help but be a little disappointed.

The dishes are flavorful, but don’t capture the subtle blend of sweet and sour flavors, held together by heat, that is the essence of Thai food for me.

As a friend of mine put it, describing a curry dish he had: “It was good but lacked impact. ... It was good but not great.”

Lemongrass: A Thai Bistro was one of the most anticipated additions to downtown Macon in a long time. Gary Schechterle, who runs M Food & Culture magazine, brought it here in a partnership with Tom Sarrtsud, whose family is behind the Ladda Thai restaurant in Warner Robins.

Their goal, Schechterle said, is to offer traditional Thai dishes. Most Thai food isn’t hot, and that’s reflected in Lemongrass’ menu, he said.

“Thai food (has been) corrupted by Thai people who want to be accommodating to Americans. ...” Schechterle said. “We didn’t want to just open a place and start throwing pad Thai out. The idea was to give Macon something that they didn’t have.”

That they have done. I don’t know of another Thai-only restaurant in Bibb County. And though the dishes I’ve tried lacked the “wow” factor, the menu is ambitious in its breadth.

Schechterle said there are some choices that didn’t really have names. They were simply Thai family recipes that no one had thought to write out for a menu.

But I miss the heat. The heat is what I craved during the months Lemongrass’ opening was delayed by one issue after another. Sure, they’ll bring hot sauce to your table if you want to ratchet things up, but that’s not the same thing.

That said, I find myself cleaning my plate every time I visit Lemongrass. And the wait staff is helpful when you want to go adventuring, steering you toward and away from dishes.

I suggest you stay away from the sushi, which I thought was very average. Try dishes the chef specializes in and don’t be afraid to ask questions.

As for the restaurant itself, it’s a small place, and things seem to take a little longer than they should. It has a modern, cool feel to it.

The row of tables up against one wall makes for close-in, conversation-sharing dining between tables, and a large bar dominates the room.

It is well stocked, and several people have recommended Lemongrass’ signature drink, the “Thai in a Glass.”

Some dishes are a little expensive at Lemongrass, and Schechterle said that’s because many ingredients are imported from Thailand, via Atlanta. Partners also have a lot to make up from the construction overhaul that turned the former Bert’s Bistro into Lemongrass. Schechterle said that took $125,000.

Lemongrass is definitely a good addition to downtown Macon. As such, its flaws may say more about our city than they do about the restaurant itself.

As we waited for the check last Friday night, enjoying a mild August evening at one of Lemongrass’ sidewalk tables, a guy walked by and asked how it was.

“It’s pretty good,” I replied, wanting to be positive, but fair.

“Yeah,” he said. “That’s Macon.”

Lemongrass: A Thai Bistro

Two and a half stars

Address: 442 Cherry St., Macon

Phone: (478) 257-6464

Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays, and full menu from noon to 11 p.m. Saturday.

Payment: Cash, credit cards Smoking: No

Alcohol: Full bar

Kids menu: No

Noise level: Medium

Health rating: 100