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closeThe first thing you notice about Mandarin Express is the decor. There are no gilded plastic pagodas, no Great Wall on the wall, no dragons, no lanterns, no Buddhas. Stylish white lighting fixtures hang before bright red-orange and lime walls, on which are hung block prints of Scandinavian-looking designs. This is not your usual fast-food Chinese.
When you enter, you go to the back counter to order your choices cafeteria-style. First you select either lo mein or fried or steamed rice. Once you have then chosen your entrees and appetizers, you pay for your meal and then take it to your table.
Of course, they have the usual beef and broccoli, kung pao and sesame chicken. But they also have a Mongolian chicken that packs a punch at the end, a comforting Bourbon chicken and light and sweet honey chicken.
Did you notice all those chicken dishes? The majority of Mandarin Express’ dishes are chicken, though they also have beef and shrimp. This healthier alternative idea is furthered by the fact that they never add MSG.
Though none of the individual dishes are very expensive (averaging $6-$8), we chose the budget-minded party for three for $21.99 and got three entrees and several appetizers to share.
Considering that there were four of us and we still took home leftovers, the price seemed very reasonable. The party for four costs $7 more and adds another entree and more appetizers.
The best appetizers were the light spring rolls filled with vegetables and the crab Rangoon. The egg rolls were nothing special, and the other appetizer items weren’t particularly memorable. The traditional entrees were about the same as other Chinese restaurants, but the ones exclusive to this restaurant were enjoyable.
The highlight of the meal came at the end and is not, per se, a Mandarin Express item. Next to the cash register is a Red Cherry frozen yogurt stand, complete with toppings bar. Though there are only two flavor choices, all I need is the lemon flavor (I hear good things about the raspberry flavor, too).
The theory of the Red Cherry company seems to be that yogurt tastes will turn back to how they began: with tarter rather than sweeter flavors. One comment on yelp.com said, “The citrus flavor is of the gods. OF. THE. GODS.” Something about that sour note gives the flavor a depth we haven’t had before in frozen yogurt.
And then there are the toppings: fresh strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries and kiwi. There’s also granola, M&Ms or — everyone’s old-school favorite — Cap’n Crunch. The Red Cherry part of Mandarin Express should do very well this summer unless everyone gets confused while looking for it and visits the smoothie store next door instead.
If you want a fresh alternative for your Chinese fix this summer, try Mandarin Express. And, no matter what, you’ve got to get your hands on some of that lemon fro yo.
Mandarin Express
Address: 5080 Riverside Drive
Phone: 474-8022
Hours: 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. daily
Payment: Cash, credit card
Reservations: No
Dress: Casual
Children’s menu: Yes
Vegetarian selections: Yes
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Noise level: Low
Health code: 95
Alcohol: No
Price range: $6-$8
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